CHIANG RAI GUIDE
by Joel John Barlow

A local fairy tale



Doi Khao Quai

A local fairy tale, of undetermined age but great allegory:

The Legend of Buffalo Horn Hill (Doi Khao Quai)

Once upon a time, a mother and her son in what is now the Chiang Rai area grew sesame. They had a buffalo, which had a calf, a special one sent from heaven. It was white, with a beautiful figure. The mother fed the buffalo and its calf in the swamp below a mountain south of Pantunakorn (or Pantumtinakorn, an older name for Chiang Rai). The young buffalo's horns became very long before it died. Much later, another farmer found the skull and horns buried in sand. He was impressed by their length, and when he decided to polish them, discovered the to be crystal! The horns brought good luck, and the farmer became rich.

Some time later, two old grandparents who were very poor lived at a farm on a bank of the Kok River, to the west of Patunakorn. They had one grandson. When the grandmother died, the grandfather didn't know how to feed his grandson, so he took him to be a buffalo-boy. The man was very old, so he told his grandson, called Tukkata to bury his body after he died. When it was decomposed, the boy should tie the corpse's head with a rope, and then pull it along the forest road. When it stuck somewhere, the son should make a large animal trap there.


Doi Khao Quai

The grandson did as his grandfather asked. When he went to check the trap, he found, caught in it, a monster with 4 ears and 5 eyes! It was short, fat and black, with long hair like a bear's. Tukkata brought it home. It didn't eat anything but red-hot coals. Its excrement, incredibly, was gold! The boy dug holes to bury the gold, doing so until he'd filled the area around the house.

The king of Pantunakorn had a beautiful daughter. Whoever met her wanted to marry her. The king made a condition: if anyone could make a gutter of gold from his house to the palace, that person could marry the beautiful daughter, and become heir to the throne. So far, nobody had been able to do that! But the buffalo-boy was becoming a young man, and realized it was possible for him. He did it, and was able to marry the daughter and became king.


Doi Kao Quai hill and temple

When the old king gave his daughter and the throne to the young man, he wanted to know where the gold to build the gutter came from, and so he asked questions. The buffalo-boy told him he got it from the monster. The king felt eager to see this amazing animal! As the young man was bringing the monster to the king, it became frightened by a crowd of people in the town. When the king opened its cage to touch it, it managed to get out. Escaping, it ran off, away into the forest. The king ordered soldiers to follow. They tracked it to a cave in the hill above where the white buffalo had lived. The king himself followed into the cave. Then suddenly the cave closed up! The king could not get out.

The king realized he couldn't escape, and would likely die in the cave, so he shouted to the soldiers outside. He ordered them to bring his seven wives. He wanted them to dance naked for him, where he could see them. Six of his wives, refused to do this.

The seventh wife danced as the king had instructed. While the king was watching, suddenly a large rock fell away! The cave had opened! The king came out, happy to be alive and free.


Maang - 5 eyed, 4 ear Monster

Afterwards, the king's new son-in-law searched for the monster in the cave. In there he found his other two grandparents. With their help he was Able to govern and develop a happy and prosperous city. He named the area of the cave Crystal Buffalo-horn Hill (Doi Kao Quai Kaeo) and built a temple there.

After the Buddha died, a disciple brought a bone from the little finger of the Buddha to the king of Pantunakorn, who had been Tukkata, the buffalo-boy. A pagoda was erected in which to keep it, where people could come to pay respect. The temple remains known as Wat Phra That Doi Kaao Quai Kaeo, but the cave is long gone, collapsed.

50 or 60 years ago, gold was still dug up in the vicinity.

A "Phra-Ong Tookkita" is said to have ruled Yonok from 423 to 427 AD; the spelling of the name, however, is entirely different from the similar sounding Tukkata.