CHIANG RAI GUIDE
by Joel John Barlow

Music, Arts and Crafts



Shan percussion band

Traditional Lanna music, with local instruments like the sau (fiddle) and kaen (panpipe) can be heard nightly at the Night Bazaar, played by musicians in traditional dress.

The National Anthem (written by the King) is played over loudspeakers and by all radio stations at 8 am and 6 pm. Chiang Rai has several radio stations, which play a variety of Thai popular music and sometimes also Western pop songs.

Late Friday and Saturday nights some good videos come on TV, especially Channel 5. There are clubs with live bands, others with karaoke for those who enjoy singing, festivals with live music, and many "suan ahaan" song bars...

There's a Lanna Music School on San Khong Luang.


Shan musicians

The most famous resident artist of Chiang Rai is Ajaan Tawan Datchanee. Other artists include Nitaiya Pankeaw, whose delightful animals and cartoon-type art were once found at her shop in the Night Bazaar, and her older sister Attakit Pankaew, who does fantastic dreamscapes. The many other interesting painters include Tamnu Thalipitak (traditional style), Chalermchai Kositpipat (symbolic exotics), Manit Muangkam (folk), Picha Ratchawong (religious imagery), Wuttigon Noingern (philosophical symbolism) and Attadit Tongsuwan (naturalism). Inson Wongsam, somluk Pantiboon, and nakorn Boonyasai, among many others, have works at the Tai yuan Art Gallery on Rajyotha Soi 3 (250 Moo 15).

The area's most popular and wonderful craft is weaving, with a wide variety of beautiful cloth styles pains-takingly produced. Splendid examples can be found for sale along Uttarakit Road, from Srikert to west of Trirat. Cross-stitch is very popular; there're several shops with supplies, and designs can be found at bookshops too. Many beautiful things are made from wicker baskets, birdcages, fish traps, chairs, etc. One can also find for sale attractive handmade household items such as clay charcoal stoves, tea sets, brooms and dust-pans, and umbrellas for shade and decoration. Other crafts include bronze casting, carving, and the making of mulberry paper and musical instruments. Sign painting by hand is common and found all over.



A variety of souvenirs are made for tourists, but a lot of local craftwork is directed at spiritual purposes. The most famous Buddha image in the country, forgotten until lightening hit a pagoda here, may have been imported, but Buddha images made here are not for export.

The most intriguing crafts shop is Silver Birch (Mai Moom Ngern; there's another in Chiang Mai), where Jet Yot reaches Pahonyothin. North of town, past Tha Pluak Khao turnoff, east of the highway and up a gravel road, is Doi Din Daeng, where Somlak Pantibun makes world-class pottery.

The Gallery of the Rajapat Institute of Chiang Rai (tel. 053-793000 for the Department of Art) has an open structure, which provides a splendid view over the lakes and does much to accommodate viewing.

Wood Carver   Wood Carver