(Many of this mountainous area's caves have become Buddhist shrines, but not all):

Thaam Phra - north across the Rimkok Resort Bridge, 1st left at Ban Nam Lad, or in dry season use the motorcycle bridge past Pattaya Noi (Chiang Rai Beach).

Tham Tu Pu - before the more famous Thaam Phra, near a bend in the river.

Tham Doi Kong Kao - under Loi Kong Kao, enter across from Monsuanthip Resort.

Close together, south of Mae Sai, are:

Thaam Luang - west off Hwy 1 at about K 884.5 (5 km south of Mae Sai). 2.5 kilos in, left from Ban Jong at K882, near the Phra That Jom Nat and Doi Nang Non (Sleeping Lady Mountain). This is the biggest, 7 km long - use good equipment and inform park officials when going to explore!

Tham Poom - south from Tham Luang at dirt road, or west from Ban Tham Luang (K878) past Ban Pa Sak (U Lo Akha), has a spectacular interior.

Tham Pla, with freshwater lakes in the cave, and Tham Ku Kaeo, a kilo north of Sleeping Lady Lagoon, 1.8 km off Hwy 1, have a unique jedi in front. Be warned of the many mischievous monkeys and gibbons by the food stalls out front! 13 k south of Mae Sai. Bring a torch (flash-light).

Nang Non Lagoon and Cave, or Tham Phyanak Cave and Resoivoir, has multicolored limestone. A sign 14 km south of Mai Sai (K. 876 or 877) reads "Sao Hin Cave and Lake." The turn-off is hardtop.

Pha Mii (Bear Cliff) Cave is nearby, off the road to Doi Tung, by an Akha village.

Tham Ku Kaeo - past the Yunnanese village Ban Thaam, west at Hwy 1, K377.5

Tham Mae Suai - north on dirt road from Mae Suai, leave 118 just southwest of SuaiRiver; dirt road begins at Phra Thaat Jom Jaeng, just north of Mae Suai town. 8 kilos further.

Tham Nam Lod Pha Khoang and Tham Lue See - way west of Phan, on dirt roads just north of Lampang's northernmost point. East of 118 at Ban Huai Som (by Rt 109), west of Ban Klua Cow.

Tham Pha Jom - just west of Mae Sai, with stairs cut in and a meditation center, has colorful stalactites.

Mae Suai Cave - 5 km north of town (dirt road).

The first three caves can easily be visited in half a day. From Chiang Rai cross the Kok River and head west at the first opportunity (other than the dead-end sois along the road north from the Dusit and Rimkok Resort bridge). There are signs, but only in Thai. The road to Tu Pu Cave starts hardtop then becomes dirt when the hardtop crosses a small bridge and goes to a somewhat sizeable pavilion under the small mountain, which contains this cave. Follow the dirt road about a kilometer, and you will see a carved rock face on the mountainside. Carving is ongoing; some painting has been done also. There's a life-size hermit (Rusi) in a small pavilion, and a big Brahma in another. One climbs stairs to reach the cave, passing one deck or platform and arriving at a second one at the entrance. Inside are marble steps and flooring (wet, especially in rainy season). There is natural light, but also bats. The big plaster or cement Buddha image there must have been formed inside the cave. A third level can be reached from inside the cave; from there is a decent view of countryside. The place has a bit of the feel of a hermitage.

Cross the stream and head west again, and after a while the Kok River becomes visable. After about 3.5 kilos one passes a Chinese place built up a steep hillside (trying to be the non-intrusive tourist, I did not pry when asking where Thaam Phra was) and then comes to Taam Pra, right at the riverside. There's a little lake right below the rock-face. The cave is larger than TuPu but smaller than Thaam Luang. The cement floor is fairly dry, so one is requested to take off shoes. There are 81 Buddhas, some from King Chulalonghorn (Rama V). An archaeological dig was done at the front left of the cave (going in).

Disco music from bungalows across the river could be heard mid-day, but the monk was very nice, and insisted on giving me a fresh packet of doughnuts.

The dirt road can be followed until it comes to a hardtop, which leads to the almost verticle ascent of limestone Loi Kong Kao. This is a roundabout way, but pleasant enough. When you see a temple (Wat), pass alongside it to reach the right road. This road eventually passes Prachayotha and becomes SanKhong Luang (at Den Ha). Cross a bridge by a disused suspension bridge, go by the new prison and the mountain, and then a "police box" (small police station) and take the next left. You'll see lots of devotional areas and some nuns.

A gravel road goes around the mountain, half the way parallel to a small stream. There's a Rusi pavilion near the cave entrance at the top of a long flight of steps. It's a good idea to make sure the cave lights are on first! This place is not tourist oriented, and signs are only in Thai, but at the bottom of the steps, to the left as you face them, is a pole with a switch and a small bulb which lights if the florescent cave lights are on. There is no natural light in the long series of cave rooms, which come complete with stalagmites and stalactites. At the very back is a reliquary. One area has an incomplete marble floor; there's sand and mud and it's very wet, with bats too. The temple complex is usually quiet, but in the larger pavilion to the front of the Rusi huge speakers are to be seen. The largest pavilion, near the entrance, remains incomplete.