Khantoke dinners-buffet of northern dishes, including steaming pots of pork curry with ginger and garlic (Gang Hanglae) and minced pork with chili paste and tomato (nam prik ong kap kaep mu). Try Sabun-nga at SangKhongNoi Soi 6.

Nang Leh sweet pineapple-a proud local specialty, more individualistic the other prize fruits strawberries and lynchees. In March, little Pu Leh pineapples become available, crunchy and tart.

During the nice season after the rains, try the inexpensive Man Kaeo fruit, which is turnip-like without much taste. It's pleasant and has the enjoyably juicy crunch most Chinese apples lack.

Nam Ngiew, Khao Soei and YenTaFo-kinds of Chinese noodle dishes, quite popular! Khao Soi Islam, on NgamMuang between Banpaprakan and Tanalai, west side, is highly recommended. Another good khao soi restaurant, Poh Jai, serving only mid-day, is behind the WiangCome, on Jed Yot. Nam Ngiao is available at many small open-air restaurants all over, and for yen-ta-fo try the first stall on Goh Loi Rd., just past the snooker club).

Typical meals at home, if not of noodles, come with rice; the expression for eating, "kin khao," translates literally as to eat rice. Of the many kinds, I find saffron rice the tastiest. Sticky rice here is looser and more tender than in Isan (the north-east). It is similarly eaten with spicy pastes, minced meats, roast chicken, fish and a variety of vegetables. Typically, people sit on a mat with many bowls of food between them; some food may be wrapped in banana leaf. Fingers are used, or a Chinese-style spoon; often Western-style spoons and forks are preferred. Knives aren't brought out with the food, as the meats have already been cut. Accompanying cooked food, one often finds lime, cucumber, cabbage and long beans. Water is the most common drink to accompany common meals.

Gat Mai health-food and natural products store, in among the plants and gardening supplies on the north side of PratuChiangMai Rd, sells khao doi klong brown rice, red rice, and many kinds of "ya samun-pai" natural medicines too.

For frozen Western-style meats, cheeses, boxed or canned Western food, try Chiang Rai First Food Co., 886/7 Pahonyothin (just west of the highway on Tanon Wat Panon; tel 716618).

For gracious dining atmosphere, look along the river. There are several spacious restaurants, most with live music. Or, just right from the end of SanKhong Luang soi 6, going south (off Kong Chang Soi 9, dog-legging a bit at its end), is a fine restaurant, Kum Jao Nang, with live guitar and food arriving on a boat from a kitchen across a small lake. Lan Jaan Beer Garden atop Nin Si Saeng Hotel, near the next T-intersection south from the stoplight at Pahonyothin and San Khong Chang-Payaban. There's live music there also, and a quite different view of the city! On SanKong Noi are many good restaurants, including SabunNga with Kantoke dinners, inexpensive eMu katah' self-grill buffets and the 29 Baht Steak restaurant. Also recommended are Krua Arum Di, just north of the old runway's end, on Sanambin Road, and EkoCha on the road between the Rimcock Hotel near Nam Lat and the Superhighway intersection just north of the river. The Cabages and Condoms Restaurant is a current hit, as is Chai Nam, on the south side of the river half a kilometer east of the superhighway bridge.

For vegtetarians, there's a good restaurant ("Jae") on the east side of Wiset Wiang Road, between Uttrakit and Singhaklai (from the C&C Hilltribe Museum take the next street west north half a block, or from AUA go east then turn south). Another is southeast of the bus station, just a two minute walk (be careful, there are two, and the closest, across from the t-intersection from the fruit market, is not truly vegetarian. They do serve fresh carrot juice though).

A bit southwest of town, along 1208 towards Khun Gon Waterfall, a few nice, spacious restaurants of excellent atmosphere are to be found.

West of Mae Chan near the Hot Springs is Silver Spring Resort, with an absolutely fabulous restaurant and very gracious atmosphere. Menu in Thai only, but definitely one of the best. Pu jai Sai, next door, is also highly recommended.

International Restaurant variety in Muang Chiang Rai:

Dutch food (Bo's Place on Pahonyothin just south of the Jet Yod tee, by Thai Military Bank)

Italian pizza (near Edison Department Store just off the main road past the Night Bazaar, south section)

French (Aye's at the end of the of the road to the bus station, on Pahonyothin

Fast American (KFC and Dunkin Donuts at Big C)

Chinese (China Town on Dusit Island, Yunnan Restaurant at 2211/6 Kwaewai Rd - turn east just before the bridge to Mae Sai-plus Kanom Jeen next to the 7-11 by the Mengrai monument)

Japanese (suki-yaki at MK Restaurant in Big C, and across from Tuk Taang on south Pahonyothin)

Vietnamese (west of the Ha-yak Mengrai monument & on the highway just north of Big C)

Pakastini (north of the Mae Sai bridge, west side of Hwy 1 at first intersection)

Isan (Lom Joi on the Airport Road just north of the old runway)

Hindu/Indian (roti wagons east of the clock tower on the south side of Banpaprekan)

Moslem and vegetarian (many, many places).

There's even baby-back ribs, at Family Bakery on NongBua, a good bit east of the Ha-yak. The mu-satay with peanut sauce at the Big C food court is highly recommended; at Quiteao Sip Baht just south of Disco Road on Pahonyothin's west side it's good too.